New Zealand Farm working Dogs 6 Common Health Problems

--> By Dr Clive Dalton

 

Internal parasites

Hook worm (Uncinaria)

About 50% of dogs are infected with hookworm.  Eggs develop in the soil and larvae can burrow through the animals skin.  They mature inside the dog and are passed out to complete the cycle.   Some dogs have developed a high resistance to hookworm infection and may only show lack of energy when working.

Signs:

*  Unthriftiness.

*  Anaemia.

*  Coma and death. 

Prevention

*  Dont house dogs on dirt floors.

*  Steam-clean kennels and move to clean ground.

*  Keep dogs away from infected areas.

*  Consult your vet for a drenching programme.

   

 Roundworms  (Toxocara canis)

The most common worm in dogs.  Pups get infected by migrating larvae in the bitchs tissue.  Many of them will not show signs of infection but the worms will be there.

Signs:

*  Pot belly.

*  Intermittent diarrhoea.

*  Nervousness.

*  Death in severe cases. 

Prevention

*  Contact vet for appropriate treatment.

*  Treat pups at 2, 4, and 6 weeks of age.

*  Keep a clean kennel.

*  Keep a clean food storage area.

*  Maintain good hygiene with a whelping bitch.

*  Keep young children away from pups in dirty conditions.

  

Whipworm (Trichuris)

Causes inflammation of the caecum. 

Signs

*  Weight loss.

*  Diarrhoea.

*  Get worse as worm burden increases. 

Prevention

*  Check with vet for correct treatment.

*  Regular dosing every 6 months.

  

Fleaworm (Didylidium caninum)

This dog tapeworm grows inside the dog, and the eggs pass out in the faeces.  The flea then eats the eggs which grow into cysts inside the flea.  The dog then eats the flea to complete the cycle.

Signs

*  General unthrift. 

Prevention

*  Check with the vet for a correct diagnosis.

*  Treat the dog by breaking the cycle.

*  Drench the dog every 3 weeks.

*  Treat for fleas.

 Hydatids tapeworms 

There are three tapeworms which come under the common name of "hydatids" tapeworms so it can be confusing.  Its important to know their differences.

 True hydatids  (Echinococcus granulosus)

The main concern here is for human health, and thankfully because of past programmes the incidence of hydatids is very low.  Note though that it is still there and this parasite must be taken seriously.

If dogs eat the untreated offal of sheep, goats, pigs, and cattle, they can ingest cysts which are full of immature tapeworms.  On bursting they grow into small tape worms 3-6mm long in the small intestine of the dog and have little effect on its health. 

When these tapeworms mature their end sections drop off and are full of highly resistant eggs which can live on pasture for several months.  When eaten by an intermediate host (sheep, cow, pig, goat or human), these eggs hatch and develop into slow-growing cysts, usually in the liver and lungs.

The cysts generally dont affect livestock but in humans can grow to 50mm across and can be life threatening.  If a cyst burst inside a person, then the risk of further infection is very high and recovery low.  They face a lifetime of regular surgery to remove them.

 False hydatids (Taenia hydatigena)

This tapeworm lives in the dog and can grow up to 5m long.  The eggs pass out the dog on to pasture and if eaten by sheep, goats, cattle, pigs and deer hatch into larvae which during their migration though the body can damage the liver.  They end up in the abdominal cavity where a cyst up to 10mm in diameter develops..

 Sheep measles (Taenia ovis)

This tapeworm only moves between sheep and dogs.  Human health is not involved.  Although the tapeworm can grow to 1m long inside the dog, it doesnt seem to affect its health.  It has a typical tapeworm life cycle from inside the dog, picked up by grazing sheep as the eggs can last a long time pasture. 

The intermediate stage inside the sheep is where cysts appear in the heart muscle and diaphragm.  Infected carcasses have to be trimmed or rejected for export.  The cysts are hard creamy-white nodules about 5mm across and appear in .  In bad cases they will be all through the big muscles too, looking like an attack of measles.

They are no risk to humans but can put customers off buying lamb for ever.

Prevention of all "hydatids" in dogs

*  Register all dogs.

*  Treat them regularly according to veterinary advice.

*  Prevent all dogs from having contact with dead animals.

*  Dont feed any offal from any farm animal to a dog.  Offal is maybe cheap dog feed             but the risks of infection are too great.

*  Burn or bury all offal.

*  If you feed sheep or goat meat to dogs, either heat it to 72 degrees Celcius for at least an hour, or freeze it at minus 10 degrees C for at least 7 days.

*  Provide dog-proof enclosures for killing dog meat.

*  Provide secure housing for dogs.

  

External parasites 

Fleas

There is an old saying that "fleas are good for dogs, they remind them that theyre dogs!"  This is a lie.  Fleas dont breed on dogs, they breed in the dirt and debris of the kennel and surrounding area, where larvae develop into adult fleas.  These then invade the dog and cause great irritation.  Constant scratching can damage the skin and allow secondary problems such as anaemia and loss of condition to arise.

Fleas breed faster in warmer weather - so be on guard in summer and autumn.  Modern flea collars work well with protection for up to 4 months.  Its a good idea to clean up the kennels with insecticide too to reduce the population.  Follow the label with all insecticides.

 Lice

These are common on dogs but dont show much effect.  A really heavy infection will cause anaemia.  Lice only live on the dog so there is no need to treat the kennel area.  Kill the lice on the dog with some of the modern treatments (see your veterinarian) and that will fix the problem.

 Cattle tick (Haemophysalis longicornis)

This is the only tick found in NZ and can be a nuisance on cattle and deer if present in large numbers.  Dogs will easily pick them up during work.  The tick sucks blood, becomes engorged and then drops off.  Its not until the animal is heavily infested that it may be of concern.

Dont pull the ticks off the dog as the head remains in the skin and can cause infection.  They can be removed by kerosene but its best to treat the dog with a correct insecticide.  Check with your vet.

 Ear mites (Otodectes)

Causes irritation in the dogs ears and may lead to secondary infections by bacteria and fungi.  Consult your vet if your dog is scratching or shaking its ears which can be very sensitive.

 Mange mites

Demodex and Sarcoptes mites are the cause of mange in dogs.  If the dog is scratching a lot, is losing hair and there are secondary skin infections present, then check if mites or consult your vet.  These mites burrow down into the skin and theres a chance that they can infect humans.

So dont delay with treatment, as bad infections can take a long time to eradicate.  DO NOT put the dogs in the sheep swim dip or shower, or use any sheep pour-on treatment.  This could kill the dog.

  

Virus diseases 

Distemper

This can be a very nasty disease in dogs and very distressing for owners as they see their dogs taking fits.  Signs include:

*  Fever.

*  Depression and loss of appetite.

*  Running nose and eyes.

*  Coughing.

*  Scouring.

*  Fits, yelping and twitching.

Its caused by a virus, usually widespread among dogs, and can be picked up from contaminated objects like clothing.  It spreads from dog to dog by moisture from eyes and nose.

Incubation is about 10 days during which the virus affects many organs such as the gut, lungs and brain.  Many dogs (about 50%) develop sufficient antibodies in a couple of weeks to control the disease and recover well.

Dogs with no antibody resistance will die.  Bad cases may recover but the dog may have impaired eyesight for the rest of its days.  It is essential to vaccinate when the dog is 6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks of age.  This is usually combined with parvo vaccination.  Then an annual booster may be needed if the dog isnt in contact with other dogs that challenges its immunity.  Check with your vet for details.

  

Parvovirus

A really distressing disease for both dog and owner.  The virus is excreted in the faeces of infected or carrier dogs and can survive in the environment for some days.  Incubation takes from 1-5 days but its not certain how it spreads.  These pups become depressed and die.

One form of parvo (Cardiac) affects the heart muscle of pups under 4 months old, and the other (Enteric) is seen in dogs of all ages.  These dogs vomit and have a severe foul-smelling diarrhoea.  Blood may show in the faeces.  The dog will be depressed and run a temperature.

Vaccination against parvo is essential for all pups and is usually tied in with distemper protection.  Consult your vet for details.

  

Infectious hepatitis

Not very common but can be devastating. 

Signs are: 

*  Vomiting and diarrhoea.

*  Fever

*  Thirst

*  Listless

*  Discharge from eyes and nose.

*  Red mucous membranes.

The virus is spread in all the dogs excretions and attacks the liver and other vital organs.  Prevention is by vaccinating young pups and is tied in with distemper and parvo protection.  Consult your vet for directions.

Other viruses

There are many other viruses that can affect dogs and appear as epidemics in districts after introduction by a carrier dog.  So its a good idea to isolate a new dog for a while to make sure its not a carrier.  Check what vaccinations a newly purchase dog has had, and discuss vaccination with your vet against these potential problems

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Be a Resource Full Puppy Owner

We though wed best follow up our joint-post about Books for Before & After you get a Puppy or Dog with some further resources. 

Because lets face it - you can never have enough resources to consult with a new puppy in the family! 

Here are some of our primary go-to places and wed love to hear your suggestions in the comments section below - lets turn this into a great resource-full page for everyone!

Mia & Julie

The Other End of The Leash ~ Patricia McConnell
In 2012, McConnell gave her website a major overhaul. Readers can now follow along her weekly blog, as well as search by interest area and easily link to relevant blog posts and videos.

McConnell’s Reading Room has drop down menus where you can access Training Your Dog, Behavior & Health, Solving Behavior Problemsand Finding Resources. Have a question about aggression? Go to Solving Behavior Problems. What do you think the "Guilty Look" is all about? Check out the Emotions section in Behavior & Health. 


The Art & Science of Animal Behavior ~ Sophia Yin
An incredibly user-friendly website jam packed with all sorts of information. Yin’s blog and resources are searchable so just type in a term (e.g. toilet training) and take a look! 

Julies favorite video shows counter conditioning of a dog displaying aggression.

Dog Star Daily ~ Ian Dunbar and co.
Dog Star Daily is a resource-laden website populated by Dunbar and a lot of other trainers. 

Take some time to look through their many many videos.

New resources to watch

AVSAB
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) new website includes a free newsletter (you can sign up using your email address or access the archives online) and blog. Considering that AVSAB tackles such topics as Cat Body Language as well as Post Traumatic Stress Disorder in Military dogs, it’s definitely a great resource for everyone!

Pet Pages
Pet Pages features content from lots of different sources. Animal behaviourist Kate Mornement writes regular posts on different topics that can be searched.

Commercial sites

Dr Joanne Righetti has helped Purina populate their Puppy Club website with helpful information.

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New Zealand Farm working Dogs 2 Buying a dog

By Dr Clive Dalton
 

Buying a dog can be a very worrying experience, especially if your current dog has just died or been killed.  You generally want a good dog that will work for you within 24 hours - and be as good if not better than the old friend you are still grieving. 

A pup

You cannot look at a pup and predict with any accuracy what it will turn out to be.  There is a lot of folklore on this such as taking the boldest pup in the litter, the one with black on the roof of its mouth, the bitchs favorite, and so on is not reliable.

Dog handlers often stress that you should take a pup that you like, because you have to build a close bond with it over the 10 years or so youll be together.  Thats got to be very sound advice.

Always go to a reputable breeder, rely on the pedigree if there is one, or ask to see the parents working.  There is no official breed society for working dogs but if dogs win trials, they can if the owner wishes, be entered in the stud book of the NZ Dog Trials Association.  You dont get in there by your looks, you have to give public displays of your work to get there.

Half-broken dog

This is a dog that has started to work - but beware!  It may be one that has stopped again!  Or it may be a dog that has had a relationship bust-up with its boss, and there may be deep scars, that may cause problems for new owners.

There are many dog handlers who do especially well taking (often for free) dogs that other handlers were going to shoot, so its not all bad news.  You many have the skills to form a good relationship with such a dog.  Just realise what is involved, and beware of what you may NOT have been told about the dog.

So just check the reason for selling.  If in doubt consult a member of your nearest branch of the NZ Sheep Dog Trial Association (SDTA).

Fully-trained dog bought privately

This is often the best option for a beginner as a reputable breeder will guarantee the dog.  This means that he/she will replace the dog or offer you the money back.  Check this before you buy.  Theyll show you the dog working on their farm (for as long as you like), but remember the importance of the bond created between owner and dog.  You will not get the same performance from the dog until you build a similar bond.  Thats why the guarantee is important.

Many breeders will give you details of the commands, either with a demo or a tape recording or both.  Itll take time for the dog to learn new sounds, as you will never be able to mimic the old commands to perfection.  The dog doesnt understand English, it only recognises sounds.

A fully-trained dog may appear costly - but just remember how many hours have gone into its training and the costs of feeding and care.  Work out the purchase price over an expected working life of 5-7 years and a top dog is always a bargain.   Again if concerned, get someone from your local SDTA to help you.

Dog bought at a sale

Special dog sales are common and there are sometimes dogs are put up at farm dispersal sales.  The points made above apply.  The only problem with a sale is that you wont have unlimited time to see the dog work.  It may only get a quick run around some friendly sheep and give a couple of barks and a leg cock.  You may not see all its strengths or weaknesses.  It may not have time to grab a sheep by the jugular or hang on a bulls tail.

And you never know what the final price may be if someone else likes it!  If youre forced to buy at a sale, get someone from your local DTA to guide you.

Which sex?

There is a wide range of opinion here.  A male dog is often preferred, as they dont come on heat and get pregnant so need time off work.  The odd bit of wandering they do is not a mortal sin unless they worry a few sheep on the way home.   Getting a bitch pregnant is seen as their good luck rather than the bitchs misfortune.  Youll always get a pick from the resulting litter even if the bitchs owner is not very pleased.

Some people prefer a bitch because they are a softer nature and maybe less headstrong.  These points are debatable and differences in temperament are often strain differences rather than sex.

Bitches these days can be prevented from coming on heat by hormone treatment.  De-sexing of working dogs (by castration) and bitches (by spaying) not needed for breeding is not popular, as many believe it makes them more prone to put on fat and get sluggish.  Current veterinary opinion is that desexing working dogs has no bad effect on their working ability.  They get plenty of exercise so obesity is not a problem.

Which colour?

 
Not an important issue.  Shepherds like a dog that is easy to see at long distances.  You would think that white would be an ideal colour, but shepherds reckon it looks too much like a sheep, and the sheep get confused too!  Red and ginger dogs are hard to see sometimes so the ideal would be a combination of black, tan and some white.

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How owning a dog can improve your health

How many times have you heard someone complain that they can’t have a pet because of their allergies? This was the excuse my parents handed out every time I asked for a dog growing up -which was a lot. But although pet allergies are a very real thing (and in some cases are very serious) I now look back as an adult and realise that my dad would probably have put up with a few sniffles if he knew how life enhancing owning a pet really is.

And while many owners feels that the friendship of a dog makes them happy, there is some science to back up the smiles – with the production of serotonin said to be increased  and stress reduced after just half an hour with a pet. Blood pressure and cholesterol can be reduced too – with studies finding that those with pets tend to have lower blood pressure and are less likely to have high cholesterol. And this is before we even consider the health benefits associated with walking your dog every day! My dog makes great company on my evening jogs, and seeing him enjoy himself makes them seem much quicker and less tiring.

There are even now studies which suggest that the risk of childhood allergies can be reduced in households with pets.  Making way for the other benefits pets can provide children as they grow up – with young people who live with pets said to be more motivated than those without them.

Of course, a pet’s benefits can’t be purely one sided. A lot of time and money is involved in their care, but I think this only adds to the wellbeing of a pet owner. This is the unproven part of this article – but since pets often become part of the family, many people find it enjoyable to see their dog run free in the park, or watch them tuck in to a bowl of nutritionally balanced (even if not the cheapest) food. I don’t see looking after my two year old Dalmatian as a chore, instead as a rewarding part of my life that comes hand in hand with having a healthy, fun companion – who could just be improving my health by making me happier in the long-term.

Guest-Author Bio: Fiona Smith is an experienced blogger on the website We Heart Pets. As well fundraising for animal charities, she enjoys walking her 2 year old Dalmatian Mac and researching new posts – past articles have included everything from a review of rspca dog insurance, to pet nutrition tips. Other hobbies include running and travelling around the UK.....anywhere I can take my dog that is!

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