New Zealand farming Farm working dogs – Glossary of terms

Dr Clive Dalton

Approach: Action of a dog when it comes up to sheep.

Backing:  Action of a dog when it jumps up and walks along the back of sheep to encourage them to move.

Bark:  To bark on command to frighten stock and make them move.

Beardie:  Breed or type of Huntaway dog with long hairy coat. 

Beardie X Huntaway

Bitch:  Female dog.

Biter:  A dog that bites sheep after chasing them. A serious fault.

Bolt:  To  run away in fear and out of control from stock or handler. 

Brace:  A pair of dogs that are worked together.

Cast:  Action of dog when it leaves the handler to encircle or gather sheep.  The handler controls the direction (right or left cast).

Collie: General term for working dog breed of British descent.  Main  type is the Border Collie, but this breed and other collies (e.g long haired or Lassie collie and Sheltie) are now pet dogs and have lost the ability to work stock. 

Dingo:  Australian native wild dog. Genes believed to be incorporated into Australian Cattle Dog.

Dog dosing: Practice of treating dogs to purge them and see if they are infected with internal parasites, especially diseases like true Hydatids which can infect humans.  Dogs are now treated at regular intervals by veterinarians.

Eye: Ability of dog to stare with intense concentration at sheep to control their movement.  Dogs may be ‘strong-eyed’ or ‘plain-eyed’ depending on the level of concentration they show.

Heading dog showing plenty of eye approaching sheep

Eye dog:  Dog with plenty of ‘eye’ to work sheep.  Same as heading dog.

Facing up:  A desired trait needed in a Huntaway where it always looks and barks directly at stock, and not at the handler.

Gun shy: A dog which is very afraid of gun fire and will run away.

Handy dog:  General purpose dog for working both sheep, cattle, goats and deer.  It will head, hunt, and back sheep and be used to move sheep in yards and woolsheds. Usually is mixture of heading dog and Huntaway.

Handy dog used on dairy farm

 Heading dog:  Dog used for gathering sheep by going around the head of a mob.

New Zealand heading dog

Heel: To move in close to the ground and bite the heel of cattle to make them move.  Can also be a command to come to the side of the handler.

Heeler:  Australian working dog bred to handle cattle.  Also called the Queensland Blue Heeler or Australian Cattle dog.  A small tough hard biting dog that will bite both the heel and nose of cattle. 

Holding:  Where a dog will chase and catch a sheep (and especially a lamb) and hold it down with its open mouth, without biting and injuring the animal. 

Hunt: Ability of dog to drive or hunt stock away from the handler under direction of handler. In dog trials Huntaways have to drive stock in both a straight or zig-zag direction generally up a steep hill.

Huntaway:  Dog used mainly for driving stock under the direction of the handler, and working in yards and woolsheds. Many will also gather stock.  Huntaways vary greatly in physical type and are not recognised as a ‘breed’ by any organisation.

Typical huntaway dogs

Kelpie:  Australian dog for working both sheep and cattle.

Leader:  Dog used to go in front of a mob to control their progress and stop them breaking or stampeding.

Lift: Action of dog to move sheep from a stationary position.  In dog trials it’s the dog’s ability to move the sheep after they have been gathered and held after the dog’s cast.

Long head: Part of a dog trial where a heading dog has to gather sheep a long distance from the handler.

 

Night barker: Dog that barks or howls when chained up at nights.

Novice: Young dog that has only completed a limited number of trials.

Pull:  Action of dog to bring sheep up to the handler.

Pup:  Young dog of either sex up to weaning (6 weeks old).  Also used for dog up to 12months old.

Outrun: Where a heading dog goes away from the handler to gather sheep.

Point of balance: The position of a dog holding a group of sheep, where it stands directly opposite the handler, and as the handler moves right or left, the dog also moves to the point of balance – and then ready to move in any direction under command.

Ringing sheep: Fault in a dog which keeps doing complete circles around a mob of sheep and has not been taught commands to stop or mover right or left.

Shed: To cut off or separate one or more individual sheep from a group and hold them so they dont return to the main group.

Short head:  Part of a dog trial where a heading dog has to gather sheep only a short distance from the handler.

Heading dog helping to pen sheep after short head.

Speak:  To bark under the command speak up.

Sundowner: Dog that leaves its work, especially when hot and noisy. 

Australian cattle dog taking an afternoon nap in his kennel

Team:  A group of dogs each of which has a different job to do.  Normally made up heading dogs and huntaways, with maybe a handy dog in the team.

Trucking dog:  Dogs used by stock truck drivers to load sheep and empty them from the individual pens on truck, up and down the loading race.

Turning tail: A fault in a dog where it turns away from a group of sheep rather than facing up to them.  A dog that will back off from a confrontation with a sheep.

Weaning:  Removing pups from their mother, done at around six weeks of age.

Whelp: The act of giving birth to pups.

Whip shy: A dog which is very afraid of a cracking stock whip used on cattle and will run away.

Wing header:  A dog that works on the sides or wings of a mob to keep them together and moving forward.

Worrier:  A dog that chases, attacks and will kill sheep or goats.

Yarding: Working sheep in yards or woolshed aided by a huntaway or handy dog.

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Dog Training Tips and Tricks Recall Training Your Dog

This article gives you tips, tricks and sound advice on recalling training your dog.

Do you have to keep an eagle eye on Buddy when you’re bringing in the groceries or answer a knock on your door? Is he just itching to make a mad dash for the great outdoors whenever the door is opened? If he makes his escape, does he fail to come back when called? If so, don’t despair, Buddy needs recall training.

Having a dog that comes the first time you call him is a rare thing. More often, it is the product of a grueling training schedule; repetition, rewards; repetition rewards. You probably know the scenario by now. If not, you have a lot to learn.

Before you throw your hands up in defeat and make Buddy wear his leash both indoors and out, or risk losing him to the dangers of the street, consider recall training.

Recall training has two basic concepts. The first is to treat your dog well each time he comes to you. Be it a kind word, a pat on the head, or a scratch behind the ears, Buddy will relish the affection you show him.

The second concept takes much more effort. Purchase a line that measures ten to twenty feet. Clip it onto Buddy’s collar and take him to the park or into the yard. Then, start training.

The line allows Buddy to put some distance between you. When Buddy has ventured almost to the end of his line, call him. A simple, “Buddy come,” will suffice. Be sure to have lots of treats in your pocket just in case he shocks you and comes immediately. If he does come, give him a treat. The worst scenario is that you will have to reel in the line to make him come. With this method, Buddy is responsible for his own behavior, but you still have control over the situation if he doesn’t obey.

If Buddy sits perfectly still when you give the “come” command, or watches birds and squirrels playing in a nearby tree, he hasn’t obeyed. Either reel him in, or go and get him and bring him to the spot where you gave the command. If this is the case, Buddy gets no reward, but no punishment either. Down play the incident and try again later.

The next time you try recall training, follow the same agenda. Never repeat the “come” command. Buddy should come the first time he’s called. If not, reel him in or go and get him and take him to where you gave the command. Down play the incident and try again later. Do this again and again and… well, you get the picture. Repetition is the name of the game. The process is long. It may take a week, a month, a year or more of constant recall training before Buddy gets it right and comes on your first command every time. But…diligence pays off and in time when you say, “come,” Buddy will obey.

In the meantime recall training will have its ups and downs. There will be times when Buddy will come. When this happens, give him a treat, rub his head, and scratch his ears and say, “good boy,” or some thing similar. Whatever else you do, reward his obedience immediately. He’ll soon get the message that obedience reaps rewards and affection.

Above all, never scream, yell, or hit Buddy if he doesn’t obey. If you do, it will set your training efforts back to day one. Buddy will fear you and instead of coming on command, he will put more distance between the two of you. When he doesn’t obey simply go to him, grasp his collar and gently take him to where you gave the command. This lets him know you are ready to enforce your commands and that he has no choice but to obey.

If you run into problems and Buddy just won’t obey, seek the services of a professional dog trainer. It may cost a bit, but a professional will be able to point out where you’re going wrong. It’s well worth the expense to know that Buddy will respond to your commands. This ensures that he will always be safe, so you can enjoy each others company for many years to come.

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7 dog tricks to teach your Dalmatian

Let’s face it: Not all dog breeds are as smart as Dalmatians. Because of this well-known fact, if you own a Dalmatian then you should take advantage of his or her cleverness and teach your dog a few tricks when you have some spare time.

If you’ve been hoping to teach your Dalmatian a few fun tricks, here are the top seven fun and unique tricks your Dalmatian can learn easily:

1. Roll over

Have your Dalmatian lie down on his stomach, and then stand over your dog and hold a treat by his nose, then move the treat around behind your dog so that he eventually lies on his side and rolls over.
 

2. Twirl

Grab your dog’s favourite treat and then have him stand on his hind legs and ask him to “twirl” by leading his nose around to the right with the treat so that he walks in a circle. When the treat comes back full circle promptly praise him and give him his treat.
 

3. Take a bow

Take a treat and hold it down towards the floor under your dog’s nose. As soon as he reaches down to get the treat put your hand under his belly to hold his rear end upwards, and then hold him in that position and say “take a bow.” Try to hold him there for a second before giving him the treat.
 

4. Sing

Make eye contact with your Dalmatian and say “sing,” then start howling in a high-pitched voice and keep doing it until your dog howls along with you.

5. Turn off the light

Hold a treat to the light switch and command him to “turn off light” (or even “light” if that’s easier), and then when your Dalmatian jumps up to get the treat make sure his paws hit the switch. As soon as the lights are turned off reward and praise him, and do this repeatedly until he gets it.
 

6. Play dead

Have your dog sit or stand, and then point your finger and him and pull your hand up while yelling “BANG!” Try to get your dog to lie down on his side with his head down and then praise him accordingly.
 

7. Hide your eyes

Make your dog sit down and then with a treat in your hand tell your dog to “hide your eyes.” First try physically lifting his paw over his muzzle and then reward him once he figures it out. 

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Guest Author: Maria Rainier is a freelance writer and blogger for First in Education where she’s recently written about onlinemathprograms along with a piece on electrical engineering degree programs. In her spare time, she enjoys yoga, traveling, and working with origami.

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Dog Tricks

Teaching your dog tricks is not only cute and fun, but actually quite beneficial to both you and the dog. Tricks are not just to be cute, nor are they only for small or cute dogs. Tricks are for all dogs and can help tremendously in curbing behavior problems. Dog tricks are especially great for very hyperactive dogs. All dogs can learn tricks, its just a matter of finding what makes them tick.

Training your dog tricks, helps stimulate their mind and help to where them out. Physical exercise is not the only way to tire your dog. Making your dog think is actually quite exhausting for them too! Of course there are some breeds that are known for doing great tricks such as the Border Collie, and their are other breeds that are said to be slower like the Rottweiler or the mastiff. I have to disagree, I think all breeds are excellent in learning tricks, again you just have to find what they want to work for. What do they find rewarding?

Once you find what they find rewarding, such as a favorite treat or toy, you can teach your dog anything you want. They Sky is the limit! When teaching your dog tricks, you want to start out with something easy such as shake. I recommend using the Clicker to train tricks, you cant beat the clicker!

What exactly is a clicker? It is simply a tool that makes a click sound to mark the exact second your dog does what you want. Each click equals they get a reward. Dogs catch on fast to what that click means and will try anything to make you click!

I recommend teaching your dog at least five easy type tricks, so both of you can get the hang of teaching and learning, along with how to manage clicker, rewards, and dogs. One great tool to have when teaching tricks is a Treat Bag. These are very useful in helping you have more hands. They keep your rewards right on you and are easy to get to. This treat bag is especially handy because it is made to stay wide open for easy grabbing of the treats, or closed so the treats dont fall out.

Once your dog is doing those five easy tricks, move on to something harder. Gradually build up to more challenging tricks. Soon youll be having a dog doing service dog based tricks such as helping with laundry by putting laundry in the basket or even pulling the laundry basket to your washer for you. How about turning on and off lights? Thats always a fun one and a crowd pleaser. Need a drink from the fridge? Send your dog! There are lots you can do with tricks!

Dog tricks dont only wear out your dog, they help give them a job to do. Dogs love having jobs to do and if you dont give them one, they will find themselves one such as chewing up your favorite shoes or designing the yard with nice big holes. Training your dog tricks, is also an excellent bonding experience for you both. Your dog will love you for teaching him tricks!

If your interested in teaching your dog tricks, there are many books out to get you started. Heres a list of some just to name a few:

• 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
• Dog Tricks: Fun and Games for Your Clever Canine
• The Dog Tricks and Training Workbook: A Step-by-Step Interactive Curriculum to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
• 101 Ways to Do More with Your Dog: Make Your Dog a Superdog with Sports, Games, Exercises, Tricks, Mental Challenges, Crafts, and Bonding

If youd rather learn how to teach your dog tricks by watching videos, heres some I recommend:

• Best of 101 Dog Tricks
• Dog Tricks Volume 1 - Dog & Puppy Training DVD
• Old Dog, New Tricks V.1

If your new to clicker training, I highly recommend starting with Clicking With Your Dog. This book is extremely useful and is actually the book that started me in clicker training. It also has a lot of useful tricks to teach your dog.

Trick of the week: Shake

This weeks trick is to Shake. Where your dog will put his paw in your hand.

First, with your dog sitting, kneel down to face him. Hold a treat firmly in your hand so that your dog is able to smell it but not get it. Position your hand near his nose but to one side of his body so that he turns his head slightly. This will take the wight off the leg he is facing away from. Encourage him to try to get the treat. Most dogs will try to open your hand with a paw. As soon as his paw touches your hand, click, open your hand, and reward. Repeat this several times with both front paws. Then add in a verbal command just before you click, such as "Shake". If you want your dog to shake with both paws, one at a time, on cue, feel free to put a different cue on each paw. You can use Shake for the right paw and left or touch for the left paw. Use what ever cue you want.

If your dog is having trouble with this, you can break it down for them. If they lift their paw just the tiniest bit off the floor, click and treat them! Build on that getting them to bring their paw up higher and higher, rewarding each effort. Praise big time when the paw actually gets in your hand!

Have fun with this! This is usually a great trick to start off with and is usually pretty easy. I wish I could post pictures but my camera is on its last leg! The quality is horrible and Im the only one to take the pictures. Makes it kind of hard to get a picture of the tricks when your also the one teaching the tricks. So for now, well have to do with out.

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