New Zealand farm working dogs 12 Dog Trials

--> By Dr Clive Dalton

History 

Photo of Old Hemp bred in Northumberland (UK) and now has his DNA in dog trial and working dogs around the world.

Dog trials have been part of New Zealand life since the establishment of sheep farming.  The late Neil Rennie’s research found that the first NZ trial was probably held at Wanaka in 1867 although it was not reported in the press. 

However, Neil found a trial reported in the Oamaru Times (now the Oamaru Mail) of July 9, 1869 as the third trial held on June 22-23 at Wanaka.  So these trials certainly outdated what was considered to be the worlds first dog trial at Bala in North Wales in 1873!  Neil was always very thrilled with this historical fact!

The first trials were a bit sporadic, and it wasnt until dog trial clubs were formed that regular events took place.  The first trial, which included huntaway events Neil found was at Black Forest station in 1870.

Dog trialing in NZ is controlled by the NZ Sheep Dog Trial Association which is made up of affiliated member clubs with meetings starting with the summer A&P shows and culminating in regional and national finals in about June.  There are shepherds trial and maiden dog trials for the less experienced held throughout the year.

Dog trialing, while still an important way to select top dogs, has through Television become a competitive sport with great public interest.

Entry qualifications for trials

The only qualification for a dog to enter a trial is its ability to work sheep.  Pedigree, colour, age or sex are not important.  Handlers can be of any age and there is no sex discrimination!  Competitors must be the bona fide owner of the dog being run, and should have owned the dog for at least 6 weeks before the competition.

Each trial has its rules of entry. At some you may have to pre-enter some days before with runs pre-scheduled to keep to a strict timetable.  In others you enter on the day but may have to wait till dusk to compete!

Most trial organisations now insist that dogs have a current hydatids treatment certificate

Check the rules

Its very important for competitors to check the rules of the particular SDTA before they start.  You can get them from any Dog Trail Club secretary and are fairly common to all trials.  However, there may be some non-standard events which are displayed at the trial. 

In almost all NZ trials one dog works three sheep.  The running of "doubles" where a shepherd works two dogs or more is a British practice and is only used here for television presentations to provide more entertainment for the viewer. 

Standard classes

There are four main standard classes for trials run under the NZSDTA.

Class 1: - Heading dogs - long head or long pull.

The competitor and dog stands in a ring from 200-500m in diameter, and in a direct line away from where three sheep are set free by a "liberator" or "slipper".  When the judge calls "time" the dog is sent on its "outrun" or "cast".  It should be free-running and the dog should not waver, tack or stop.  Most long-head runs start on a hill and finish on the flat, depending on the trial location.

A pear-shaped outrun is ideal and it can be to the left or right of the handler.  Generally most courses favour a right-hand cast.  A very wide outrun as used in a big paddock is not wanted but its also important that the dog does not run so direct at the sheep that it panics them and they take flight.

When the dog completes the outrun, it should stop in such a position that when the sheep move, they come in a straight line to the handler.  This is known as "stopping on balance," before the dog "lifts" the sheep or starts them moving.

The dog now executes the "pull" or drive the sheep straight towards the handler.  The sheep should not stop on their journey and the pull is completed when the sheep enter the ring where the handler stands.  This is the "hold" and is "claimed" by the handler standing still with outstretched arms.  After the "claim" the judge will call "right".

To go for the perfect hold the handler moves around the sheep as they enter the ring so the final scene is the sheep facing the dog with the handler behind them. 

The time allocated for this event is usually about 9 - 14 minutes.

Class 2: - Heading dogs - short head and yard

The competitor and dog stand in a pegged quadrangle or "quad".  As in Class 1, the dog makes an outrun and pulls the sheep to the handler, entering the quad between the front markers.  Even if the sheep escape, they must be taken back to enter the quad through "the front door", and the handler cannot leave the quad until this is completed.

Competitor and dog then move the sheep along a pegged 20m-wide lane towards two parallel hurdles.  They cannot stray outside the lane on this "first drive".  The handler can move across "the drive" but shouldnt get ahead of the shoulder of the leading sheep or move backwards.

Points are lost for excessive movement or running, or for the competitor and dog changing sides during the drive.  This first drive ends at a peg in the middle of the lane, 10m away from the hurdles through which the sheep have got to be driven.

After all the sheep have passed the peg, the handler may move about freely to help the dog drive the sheep through the hurdles.  The sheep are now in the "free working area" ready to pass through the hurdles that are 3m apart.  All sheep and the handler must pass through the hurdles.  So if any slip past, they must be brought back.

The "second drive" is similar to the first and ends at a line 10m from the yard.  Once over this line, the competitor can go to the 2m square yard and open the gate until it hits a stop that prevents it opening more than 90 degrees.  Once the hand is on the gate, it cannot be released until the sheep are completely inside the pen.

The gate cannot be used to frighten the sheep and drive them in.  Thats the dogs job!  No part of the competitor, including the stick which must be no more than 1m long, is permitted to come forward of the line extending along the gate and out from its head.  Only behind this line can the competitor move about to assist the dog.

The run is completed when the sheep are penned and the gate shut.  The time for this event is usually about 10 - 14 minutes.

Class 3:  Huntaways - Zigzag hunts

For the "zigzag" or "huntaway with slew" the competitor stands at the bottom of the course, usually in a pegged area and facing a steep hill.  Three sheep are liberated at the top of the course and at the call of "time" the trial starts.

The competitor directs the dog to hunt the sheep in a straight line through the first two pegs marked on the course.  The sheep must then change direction or "slew" towards a second set of makers and then proceed to the top markers in line with the first.

The dog must "face-up" to the sheep.  In other words it must bark at the sheep, and not at the handler.

The time for this event is usually around 8 - 10 minutes.

Class 4:  Huntaways - straight hunt

This begins in the same way as the zigzag but the only markers are those at the top of the course.  The sheep have to be hunted directly to the centre of these top markers - in as straight a line as possible.

At some trials, class 3 and 4 are run on the same course, with the two sets of markers being ignored for the straight hunt.

Time allowed for this event is usually about 8 - 10 minutes.

General points

·      The aim of trials is to demonstrate a high level of stock handling and dog control.

·      The challenge is to be able to assess quickly the sheeps strengths and weaknesses.

·      The aim is to direct force at stock from a distance.  The dog must be careful but firm.

·      The first contact of the dog with the sheep is a critical time and must be accomplished with great care.

·      There is no disgrace in not finishing a run.  Its better to withdraw with grace than hound some other persons sheep to injury or exhaustion.

·      Withdrawal is indicated by a wave to the judge or walking off the course.  If you cannot control the sheep, then leave them for the officials to handle.

Judging

Judges are all experienced dog trialists who aim to judge each run with impartiality and to a uniform standard.  Judging in nearly all NZ trials is by one judge who takes points off the perfect score of 100.  There are a large number of reasons to deduct points.  Here are some major ones:

·      Not completing the run.

·      A dog that loses concentration and stops to sniff an area or urinate.

·      A huntaway that shows inattention to the sheep, eg looks back and barks at the handler called "barking off the stock".

·      A heading dog that makes a slow outrun without much purpose

·      A heading dog that bites sheep.

Cattle dog trials

Although sheep dogs work cattle, trials to demonstrate this skill have not been popular in New Zealand.

The Stud Book

The NZ Sheepdog Stud Book, in which all dogs that win trials can be entered started in 1940.  It is run by a stud book committee and a registrar. 

Further information

New Zealand Sheep Dog Trail Association, PO Box 307, Hastings, New Zealand.

Further reading

Burns, M and Fraser, M.N. (1966).  Genetics of the Dog.  London: Oliver and Boyd

Dalton, D.C.(1983).  Farm Working Dogs.  Ministry of Agriculture & Fisheries AgLink advisory leaflets.  FPP 613, 695, 696, 697, 698,699, 700, 701, 702, 703,704, 775.

Fox, M.W. (1965).   Canine Behaviour. Springfield: C.C. Thomas.

Fox, M.W. (1972).   Understanding Your Dog. New York: Coward. McCann and Geoghegan.

Kelly, R.B. (1958).   Sheep Dogs. Sydney: Angus and Robertson.

Longton, T and Hart, E (1969).   Your Sheep Dog and its Training.  Battle (Sussex):  Alan Exley.

Lorenz, K (1953)   Man Meets Dog.  London:  Penguin Books.

Rennie, N (1984).   Working dogs.  Shortland Publications, Auckland NZ.  96p

Scott. J.P. and Fuller, J.L. (1965).  Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog.  Chicago: University of Chicargo Press.

Read More..

New Zealand Farm working Dogs 6 Common Health Problems

--> By Dr Clive Dalton

 

Internal parasites

Hook worm (Uncinaria)

About 50% of dogs are infected with hookworm.  Eggs develop in the soil and larvae can burrow through the animals skin.  They mature inside the dog and are passed out to complete the cycle.   Some dogs have developed a high resistance to hookworm infection and may only show lack of energy when working.

Signs:

*  Unthriftiness.

*  Anaemia.

*  Coma and death. 

Prevention

*  Dont house dogs on dirt floors.

*  Steam-clean kennels and move to clean ground.

*  Keep dogs away from infected areas.

*  Consult your vet for a drenching programme.

   

 Roundworms  (Toxocara canis)

The most common worm in dogs.  Pups get infected by migrating larvae in the bitchs tissue.  Many of them will not show signs of infection but the worms will be there.

Signs:

*  Pot belly.

*  Intermittent diarrhoea.

*  Nervousness.

*  Death in severe cases. 

Prevention

*  Contact vet for appropriate treatment.

*  Treat pups at 2, 4, and 6 weeks of age.

*  Keep a clean kennel.

*  Keep a clean food storage area.

*  Maintain good hygiene with a whelping bitch.

*  Keep young children away from pups in dirty conditions.

  

Whipworm (Trichuris)

Causes inflammation of the caecum. 

Signs

*  Weight loss.

*  Diarrhoea.

*  Get worse as worm burden increases. 

Prevention

*  Check with vet for correct treatment.

*  Regular dosing every 6 months.

  

Fleaworm (Didylidium caninum)

This dog tapeworm grows inside the dog, and the eggs pass out in the faeces.  The flea then eats the eggs which grow into cysts inside the flea.  The dog then eats the flea to complete the cycle.

Signs

*  General unthrift. 

Prevention

*  Check with the vet for a correct diagnosis.

*  Treat the dog by breaking the cycle.

*  Drench the dog every 3 weeks.

*  Treat for fleas.

 Hydatids tapeworms 

There are three tapeworms which come under the common name of "hydatids" tapeworms so it can be confusing.  Its important to know their differences.

 True hydatids  (Echinococcus granulosus)

The main concern here is for human health, and thankfully because of past programmes the incidence of hydatids is very low.  Note though that it is still there and this parasite must be taken seriously.

If dogs eat the untreated offal of sheep, goats, pigs, and cattle, they can ingest cysts which are full of immature tapeworms.  On bursting they grow into small tape worms 3-6mm long in the small intestine of the dog and have little effect on its health. 

When these tapeworms mature their end sections drop off and are full of highly resistant eggs which can live on pasture for several months.  When eaten by an intermediate host (sheep, cow, pig, goat or human), these eggs hatch and develop into slow-growing cysts, usually in the liver and lungs.

The cysts generally dont affect livestock but in humans can grow to 50mm across and can be life threatening.  If a cyst burst inside a person, then the risk of further infection is very high and recovery low.  They face a lifetime of regular surgery to remove them.

 False hydatids (Taenia hydatigena)

This tapeworm lives in the dog and can grow up to 5m long.  The eggs pass out the dog on to pasture and if eaten by sheep, goats, cattle, pigs and deer hatch into larvae which during their migration though the body can damage the liver.  They end up in the abdominal cavity where a cyst up to 10mm in diameter develops..

 Sheep measles (Taenia ovis)

This tapeworm only moves between sheep and dogs.  Human health is not involved.  Although the tapeworm can grow to 1m long inside the dog, it doesnt seem to affect its health.  It has a typical tapeworm life cycle from inside the dog, picked up by grazing sheep as the eggs can last a long time pasture. 

The intermediate stage inside the sheep is where cysts appear in the heart muscle and diaphragm.  Infected carcasses have to be trimmed or rejected for export.  The cysts are hard creamy-white nodules about 5mm across and appear in .  In bad cases they will be all through the big muscles too, looking like an attack of measles.

They are no risk to humans but can put customers off buying lamb for ever.

Prevention of all "hydatids" in dogs

*  Register all dogs.

*  Treat them regularly according to veterinary advice.

*  Prevent all dogs from having contact with dead animals.

*  Dont feed any offal from any farm animal to a dog.  Offal is maybe cheap dog feed             but the risks of infection are too great.

*  Burn or bury all offal.

*  If you feed sheep or goat meat to dogs, either heat it to 72 degrees Celcius for at least an hour, or freeze it at minus 10 degrees C for at least 7 days.

*  Provide dog-proof enclosures for killing dog meat.

*  Provide secure housing for dogs.

  

External parasites 

Fleas

There is an old saying that "fleas are good for dogs, they remind them that theyre dogs!"  This is a lie.  Fleas dont breed on dogs, they breed in the dirt and debris of the kennel and surrounding area, where larvae develop into adult fleas.  These then invade the dog and cause great irritation.  Constant scratching can damage the skin and allow secondary problems such as anaemia and loss of condition to arise.

Fleas breed faster in warmer weather - so be on guard in summer and autumn.  Modern flea collars work well with protection for up to 4 months.  Its a good idea to clean up the kennels with insecticide too to reduce the population.  Follow the label with all insecticides.

 Lice

These are common on dogs but dont show much effect.  A really heavy infection will cause anaemia.  Lice only live on the dog so there is no need to treat the kennel area.  Kill the lice on the dog with some of the modern treatments (see your veterinarian) and that will fix the problem.

 Cattle tick (Haemophysalis longicornis)

This is the only tick found in NZ and can be a nuisance on cattle and deer if present in large numbers.  Dogs will easily pick them up during work.  The tick sucks blood, becomes engorged and then drops off.  Its not until the animal is heavily infested that it may be of concern.

Dont pull the ticks off the dog as the head remains in the skin and can cause infection.  They can be removed by kerosene but its best to treat the dog with a correct insecticide.  Check with your vet.

 Ear mites (Otodectes)

Causes irritation in the dogs ears and may lead to secondary infections by bacteria and fungi.  Consult your vet if your dog is scratching or shaking its ears which can be very sensitive.

 Mange mites

Demodex and Sarcoptes mites are the cause of mange in dogs.  If the dog is scratching a lot, is losing hair and there are secondary skin infections present, then check if mites or consult your vet.  These mites burrow down into the skin and theres a chance that they can infect humans.

So dont delay with treatment, as bad infections can take a long time to eradicate.  DO NOT put the dogs in the sheep swim dip or shower, or use any sheep pour-on treatment.  This could kill the dog.

  

Virus diseases 

Distemper

This can be a very nasty disease in dogs and very distressing for owners as they see their dogs taking fits.  Signs include:

*  Fever.

*  Depression and loss of appetite.

*  Running nose and eyes.

*  Coughing.

*  Scouring.

*  Fits, yelping and twitching.

Its caused by a virus, usually widespread among dogs, and can be picked up from contaminated objects like clothing.  It spreads from dog to dog by moisture from eyes and nose.

Incubation is about 10 days during which the virus affects many organs such as the gut, lungs and brain.  Many dogs (about 50%) develop sufficient antibodies in a couple of weeks to control the disease and recover well.

Dogs with no antibody resistance will die.  Bad cases may recover but the dog may have impaired eyesight for the rest of its days.  It is essential to vaccinate when the dog is 6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks of age.  This is usually combined with parvo vaccination.  Then an annual booster may be needed if the dog isnt in contact with other dogs that challenges its immunity.  Check with your vet for details.

  

Parvovirus

A really distressing disease for both dog and owner.  The virus is excreted in the faeces of infected or carrier dogs and can survive in the environment for some days.  Incubation takes from 1-5 days but its not certain how it spreads.  These pups become depressed and die.

One form of parvo (Cardiac) affects the heart muscle of pups under 4 months old, and the other (Enteric) is seen in dogs of all ages.  These dogs vomit and have a severe foul-smelling diarrhoea.  Blood may show in the faeces.  The dog will be depressed and run a temperature.

Vaccination against parvo is essential for all pups and is usually tied in with distemper protection.  Consult your vet for details.

  

Infectious hepatitis

Not very common but can be devastating. 

Signs are: 

*  Vomiting and diarrhoea.

*  Fever

*  Thirst

*  Listless

*  Discharge from eyes and nose.

*  Red mucous membranes.

The virus is spread in all the dogs excretions and attacks the liver and other vital organs.  Prevention is by vaccinating young pups and is tied in with distemper and parvo protection.  Consult your vet for directions.

Other viruses

There are many other viruses that can affect dogs and appear as epidemics in districts after introduction by a carrier dog.  So its a good idea to isolate a new dog for a while to make sure its not a carrier.  Check what vaccinations a newly purchase dog has had, and discuss vaccination with your vet against these potential problems

Read More..

New Zealand Farm working Dogs 5 Further training

-->  By Dr Clive Dalton
 

Casting

This is the wide sweep a dog takes around stock when sent to gather them.  It’s a strong natural instinct in the Border Collie.   When the dog sights its first sheep, it then takes another wider cast so as not to miss any more, and it keeps on casting wider itself. 

Problems arise when dogs dont cast well and run straight at the first sheep they see, or cut in on sheep and split mobs.  A wide cast is especially important if you send a dog away to find sheep that may be out of sight, called "casting blind". 

Some dogs have a favourite side to cast and will "cross the head" to get to it.  To stop this youll have to go back to the basics of "putting the sides" on the dog.  Do it up against a fence so the dog cannot cross.  For a novice handler, teaching a dog to widen its cast is not easy.  You can end up souring the dog by over-checking it, at the stage of high excitement when it sees sheep to gather.  

Probably the simplest technique is to get the dog on a long cord.  As it moves away from you on the go-right or go-left command, start to add another command to “keep out” getting it to go wider, and use a long stick to direct the dog further out.

Some experts dog trialists teach this by driving the dog in a harness and one trainer (Mills et al, 1964) used a system of ropes around a post to pull the dog to widen its outrun.  Other trainers have used a chariot-like device to steer the dog while giving spoken and then whistle commands.  Another trick is to attach a spare collar around the dogs loin carrying a cord from the neck collar.  At your command to “keep out”, pull the cord and it shifts the dogs bodily direction.

It would not be wise to get involved with these techniques unless you had expert help.  Contact a local dog trainer for some simpler way to solve the problem.

Recasting

This can be hard for some dogs, as it means leaving the sheep theyve just captured.  First you have to strengthen the commands to "stop," and then "leave go" the current job.   Then the new command to recast or "go back" is taught. 

Its also useful to teach a body signal as well as the go-back command.  An extended arm or stick is good, as the dog being visually alert can see this at a long distance, and it helps to reinforce the message, especially if you walk in the direction you want the dog to go.

Driving

Some dogs with a strong heading instinct find driving sheep away from you difficult.  The way to overcome this is to teach the dog in a race so that its hard for the dog to head up each side.  When the dog heads, keep calling it "in behind" until it will work the sheep on short heads itself.  Accompany the dog at the start of the drive and then gradually hang back and let the dog do it alone from your distant directions.

Leading

This is where a dog stays ahead of driven stock, holding them up but not too much.  It simply restrains the leaders without balking the mob.  It learns to hold the mob until the last minute and then backs off.  Its best taught in a race with a big mob moving up to the dog (under pressure from behind) which naturally will want to hold them.

At the appropriate time as the pressure builds up on the dog, give the command to "back off" or "get outside".  A hand signal will help too.   A good dog wont need commands once it has learned the job. 

Shedding

This is the ability of a heading dog to separate off a sheep and prevent it from joining the mob again.  In British dog trials, it has to keep on doing this until a marked group are shed off.  Its a useful trait at lambing time when ewes and lambs may have to be sorted out individually in the paddock.

Note the dog has to do the shedding and not the person!  The TV spectacle of the shepherd running around frothing at the mouth, and the dog standing watching with a smile on its face is not the general idea.

The dog is trained to come through gaps between individual sheep at great speed, indicated by the shepherds stick to a command of "here" or "here this."

To get the speed into the action, you need a sharp eye dog and the dog on a light cord.  On the command, "here", if the dog is confused, pull it towards you.   You need great control after the shed, as many dogs want to go around and chase the sheep back again.  The dog has to understand that you want that sheep kept separate. 

Jumping, backing and bike riding

Dogs generally love to jump and can be taught this trick from a young age.  Get them to jump on to anything around the place, into their pens, on to boxes, wool bales, bikes, etc, to the command "get up".  Make sure they are strong enough to do it, and give them a hand in the early stages in case they get hurt and are put off.  Reward the dog with plenty of fuss when the task is completed.

Use the same technique to get them to jump on to sheep.  But make sure the sheep are well woolled and tightly packed so the dog doesnt fall off and get stood on.  Only when the dog is competent to run along on sheep, should it be commanded to jump on loose sheep.

On bikes and vehicles make sure dogs are safe and drive slowly until they learn how to balance to stay on.  Make a proper tray on a bike for them to provide grip and protection.

Catching sheep

Trainers disagree strongly on whether dogs should be taught to catch sheep.  Some are concerned it encourages sheep worrying, and can spread through the shepherds team of dogs.   Other shepherds (as they age) like a dog that will catch sheep, especially at lambing time and at docking.

Remember that dogs teeth can puncture hides and tear muscles, and this costs the industry a fortune each year.  So you need a dog with a "soft mouth" for the job, that holds with its mouth rather than bites.   Huntaways generally have much softer mouths than heading dogs, but the heading dog has the speed and agility to be ideal for catching sheep.

Teaching this task can be tricky so talk to someone who has been successful.  You have to develop the "catch-to-kill" instinct in the dog, and this is done by exciting the dog, then making sure it is checked at the right moment.  This is when YOU have hold of the sheep.

You can easily get things wrong.  The dog will often hold the sheep and under fear of your approach and being reprimanded for biting, will release it just before you grab it! This exercise can repeat itself two or three times, ending in a very punctured and suffering sheep, a confused dog and a crazed shepherd.

Some trainers teach pups to catch or hold things by playing with a piece of rubber or a rag.  Others are against the whole idea.  Some dogs show a natural ability for this job while others should be banned.  It depends on the nature of the beast.  Talk to an experienced handler about this.

Heeling cattle

This is a strong instinct in some dogs such as the Border collie and the blue heeler.  These dogs will bite the heels then the noses of cattle and can cause utter confusion to the beast if not controlled.  Some dogs will even finish the job off by swinging on the beasts tail.

The dog has to be fearless of cattle and have the skill to lie low once the heels are bitten to avoid flying back feet and injury.   The dog has got to have the instinct to do it properly or it doesnt survive.  You cannot teach an unwilling dog to do this.  Your concern is generally to keep the trait under control.

To test the dog’s instinct, try a hiss-hiss sound while moving cattle and see what the dog does.  A keen dog will dive in and heal stock straight away.

Negotiating fences and gates

Conventional fences

These are no problem.  You can get hold of the dog, reassure it and push it through between the wires or through the bars of the gate.  Use a command like "get through" and reward the success.  An arm signal may help to reinforce the command from a distance.

Power fences

These are a disaster for dogs.  Some dogs seem to get an unpleasant sensation through the ground from the fence, long before touching it so get very shy of fences in general.  Manufacturers have generally not faced up to this fact, and make suggestions that dogs can be taught to jump fences.  They can, but pups and old dogs cant jump very high.  The late Neil Rennie suggested power fence companies should design special insulated "bolt holes" for dogs in a fence, but nothing eventuated.

If using power fences, at least be consistent.  For example, dont make the bottom wires (or the middle wires) hot.  The dog will then learn where it is safe to get through.  Powered outriggers make things worse, so try to keep them above dog-crawl level.

You have to be very patient, as many dogs will not get through the fence and will go long distances to get through the gate that they know is safe.  Thats fine if you dont have an urgent job for the dog to do through the fence.

The most important fact about dogs getting shocks (which seems inevitable on modern farms) is not to speak to the dog for at least 5-10 seconds after the event.  Then it wont associate YOU with the shock.

Handling a pre-owned dog

With a new dog, the task is to build a new bond to replace the old one.  This could have been quite strong, so be patient.  Dogs with very strong bonds to one owner can be a nuisance at times, especially if someone else needs to work them during an emergency.  The old dog on the farm that will work for anybody is a great asset.  Hes usually working his handlers if they only realised it!

The first thing with a new dog is to take it everywhere on a lead and give it plenty of fuss and attention.  This is especially so at feeding time.   Let it off the lead in a confined area first and strengthen the "come here" command.  Start to work it only when youre sure it will stay and come to you.   Keep a short chain on its collar and tie it up when not working. Most keen dogs will work for a new owner after about a week.

The previous owner will tell you the commands the dog responds to.  Apart from a demonstration, vendors may provide a tape recording of whistles.  Dont expect too much from the dog when you try them, as the dog will hear them as close but different sounds to the vendor’s.

But the dog will recognise enough to know what to do, and then you can add your command or whistle to the old one if you want to change anything.  Remember to be patient, especially if the dog has been strongly bonded to the previous owner.  It will be missing its former “pack” of the boss and other dogs.  It now has to try to work out where it fits into a new pack.

Team working

If you start to build up a team of dogs, the key to avoid extra work and disaster is to make sure you have ALL team members under control.  Disaster is assured when you command one dog to work, and the whole team join in and help. 

Remember its very hard for a keen dog to sit and watch.  The dogs name is its alerting signal, and most top handlers have different whistles for each animals commands.  The most important one is the "stop" whistle, especially on Monday mornings after the dogs weekend off!

Regular work with the team and firm kind control is the key to success.  Build the team up slowly and be aware of the social ranking within it.  You are the pack leader and keep it that way.  Be alert to threats and changes within the social order.

Some handlers use dogs to discipline other dogs in the team.  This can be very effective but can also get out of control with severe damage inflicted on the culprit.  The top dog handlers do not recommend it.

Biting people

This is now a big concern.   Biting dogs are a “hazard” under Occupational Safety and Health laws where you have to Identify, Eliminate or Isolate them.  You could be responsible for any damage.  Why do dogs bite people?  Some possible reasons are:

·      The nature of the dog.

·      Over-stimulation or excitement.

·      A bitch protecting her litter.

·      To protect the pack leadership.

·      In fear (eg against vets and Dog Control officers).

·      To protect their territory (eg kennel or run).

·      Confusion or frustration.

Dogs dont like rules that change so be consistent, especially if more than one person is involved.  An example is Dad says one thing and Mum and the kids operate a different set of rules.

When meeting a strange dog, stand still and hold your hand out for it to sniff.  Never grab it by the scruff and pat its head madly.  Thats a very dominating thing to do to a dog, as this is where dogs grab each other in fights!  Rub its chest or somewhere low down instead.  Adopt a low posture if you dare risk it.

Aggressive strains of dogs should be culled.  Dogs that are known biters are a concern and veterinarians say they rarely can be cured.  Its too big a risk these days to keep them.  Muzzling dogs all the time is not a very practical solution, and one day you’ll forget but the dog won’t.

Biting sheep

The concern here is that biting leads to worrying.  Working a dog in a muzzle is not practical.  Some veterinarians will advise removing the canine teeth in valuable dogs, but the dog can still do damage to stock with the remaining teeth.  A much more humane method these days is the electronic-training collar when properly used.

If you have a savage mature dog that bites consistently, the solution is often euthanasia.  The problem could be genetic and you don’t what those genes in the strain or breed.   The time to check this problem is at the puppy stage before the habit has developed.  Talk to your vet about the problem.

Sheep worrying

Dogs are d

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New Zealand Farm working Dogs 10 Practical Feeding

By Dr Clive Dalton

Old  dogs need special care after many years of loyal service

 
 Balanced feeding

Dogs need a balanced diet, which has everything in it to meet their needs for maintenance and production.

What does a dog need for maintenance?

Table below has a mass of information on the energy and protein that a dog needs.  First, look at the layout. 

  Note these features:

·      There is information for three weights of dogs.

·      The maintenance needs per weight of dog are shown in kcal of energy and in grams of protein.  So a small dog (15kg) needs 1005kcal of energy and 72g of protein each day to sustain its body functions.

·      There is a range of diets in the left column and their energy and protein contents are shown beside them.

·      Look back in the column for each weight of dog and you can see how much of that diet to feed and how near that quantity comes to meet the maintenance needs.

For example: 450 g of meat will provide 900 kcal of energy and 81g of protein.  This is 105 kcals of energy too little, and 9g of protein too much.  Its "near enough" you could say.

What about production (working)  needs?

Here you have to provide feed over and above maintenance.  See Table below which shows the number of times you multiply the maintenance feeds by to meet the dog’s nutritional needs.

Dogs in work

Light exercise                 1.5 x M

Medium exercise            2.0 x M

Heavy exercise            2.5 x M

Bitches

Late pregnancy            2.5 x M

Early lactation              3.0 x M

Pups

Up to 7 weeks                  2.0 x M

7-9 weeks                        3.0 x M

9 weeks onwards            decrease to adult levels

Calcium and phosphorus

The Calcium and Phosphorus daily needs for a dog are shown in table below.

The table shows when supplements are needed for that range of diets.  If you need to add Ca or P, how much do you provide - the answer is in table 4, using the most readily available sources of dicalcium phosphate or bonemeal, and calcium carbonate.

Minerals and vitamins

Look at table below to see which type of diet is likely to be short of minerals and vitamins.

Note that the all-meat diet is short of all those listed so has serious implications for health.   Note also that vitamins D and E are going to be short in all the diets.

The all-meat diet

So many farmers will tell you that an all-meat diet is ideal for a working dog and theyll back their opinion with a lifetimes experience of feeding meat.  They point out that dogs are carnivores so meat is their natural diet.

These opinions are flawed!  But there are hundreds of farmers who wont accept these basic facts and nutritionists are regularly criticised for their ignorance of real life on a farm.  Owners also argue that commercially available diets are too expensive and there are plenty of cull stock to eat up which have little market value.  Again, remember my first question of what is a dog worth to your business.

There are all sorts of problems with all-meat diets for working dogs, and they require substantial supplementation with minerals like calcium, phosphorus and iodine, as well as vitamins.  Dogs on these so-called all-meat diets are in fact supplementing them by scavenging.  They are eating dung, carrion and goodness knows what else.  They maybe look all right but are not being kept at peak fitness, which a balanced diet allows.  Skinny underweight dogs are unhealthy and are even more prone to parasite attack.

The second common error is thinking that adding milk will balance an all-meat diet.  This is not true either. 

Bones

Bones with a red tinge of meat on them provide very little nutrients.  Bones are good dental exercise - and thats about all.  They do contain some calcium and phosphorus but its better to supply these important minerals in other more digestible forms if needed. 

How long was the meat frozen?

This is a concern on farms where there are many shepherds using meat out of the same freezer.   There are no problems if the meat is cut up, bagged and dated, but so often this doesnt happen and you dont know how long the meat has been frozen.  If you mark on plastic bags remember the ink may come off or be hard to read when iced over.  Tie-on labels are always readable.

The rule of holding meat at minus 10 degrees C for 7 days is a MINIMUM.   Please note well this point.   And its important to make sure the meat is at minus 10 right at the centre.  As many old freezers are used for dog meat, they sometimes are not at peak efficiency.  If you have any concerns, get your Dog Control Officer to check the freezer.

Big bags of mince for example will take much longer than 7 days to get to minus 10 C in the middle so they are not treated properly.

The key is to have a system that rotates the meat, and that everyone involved in using the meat understands it.  If you buy low-grade carcasses from a meatworks, make sure they have been held at the correct temperature and for the correct time.  The same would apply to local abattoir meat.

All meat sold at licensed pet food shops must meet the requirements of the Hydatids Act, so you can buy there with confidence.

Thawing frozen meat

Imagine working hard all day and getting a frozen joint to chew at all night.   What a great reward from a grateful boss!   This happens to many dogs when things are busy and the planning breaks down.  Allow at least a day for meat to thaw out and in winter it may take 2-3 days.  So allow plenty of time for this.

And remember – the juices that flow from frozen meat contain important vitamins and minerals that the dog should have.  The chore of catching the juice and returning it to the meat just shows impractical all-meat feeding is.

Cooking sheep and goat meat for dogs  

Do NOT feed any fresh sheep or goat meats to dogs, to prevent the spread of sheep measles.  Cooked meat must be brought to the boil and then left for a minimum of 30 minutes, and probably more like an hour.  If there is still blood showing at the end of the cooking time, then boil it a little longer.

Cooking offal and sheep and goat meat

This is a messy time-consuming business, even when proper facilities with modern electric cookers and time switches are available.  Although the law allows the feeding of correctly cooked offal, you would be wise to forget the idea.  

With so many good dog feeds available these days, it’s unwise to feed cooked offal to dogs.   If you think that feeding cooked offal produces a cheap dog feed, then you should do your sums again.  The true costs and the risks make it a poor alternative feed for dogs.

The risks of inadequate cooking are high because cooking time can vary depending on many things.  As a general rule, 1.5 to 2 hours is needed.  If there is still blood showing at the end of cooking time, then the meat needs some more treatment.

Feeding other meats

Meat from cattle, horses, deer, rabbits, pigs and possums can be fed raw to dogs without risk of infection from sheep measles.  However, it would be unwise to feed raw possum in areas where there is a risk of Tb which dogs could pick up.

Other dietary problems

There are a few problems such as bad breath, anal gland infection and bad teeth which can all arise as a result of feeding.  Check them out with your veterinarian. 

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